Access Florence The dome, and the nine hundred years around it.

The Journal

New writing about Florence — the mechanics, the hours, the crowds, and the parts of the city most visitors walk straight past. Three pieces a week.

How to order a bistecca, and what comes with itHow to order a bistecca, and what comes with itWhere to watch the light land on the domeWhere to watch the light land on the domeThe walk up to San Miniato, and why most people stop too earlyThe walk up to San Miniato, and why most people stop too earlyWhich bridge to cross, and what changes on the other sideWhich bridge to cross, and what changes on the other sideA morning in the Oltrarno, workshop by workshopA morning in the Oltrarno, workshop by workshopThe Brunelleschi grammar: pietra serena, white plaster, arithmeticThe Brunelleschi grammar: pietra serena, white plaster, arithmeticReading a fresco cycle: what to look at firstReading a fresco cycle: what to look at firstThe Bargello, and why it beats the Accademia queueThe Bargello, and why it beats the Accademia queueWhat to see in the Uffizi if you only have ninety minutesWhat to see in the Uffizi if you only have ninety minutesWhy a skip-the-line ticket often is not oneWhy a skip-the-line ticket often is not oneWhat the Duomo passes actually include, and which one climbs the domeWhat the Duomo passes actually include, and which one climbs the dome