Access Florence The dome, and the nine hundred years around it.

The Journal

New writing about Florence — the mechanics, the hours, the crowds, and the parts of the city most visitors walk straight past. Three pieces a week.

The herringbone: why the dome could rise without scaffoldingThe herringbone: why the dome could rise without scaffoldingMachiavelli after the rope: how The Prince got writtenMachiavelli after the rope: how The Prince got writtenThe bonfire, the trial by fire, and the plaque in the squareThe bonfire, the trial by fire, and the plaque in the squareDante's Florence, and where you can still stand in itDante's Florence, and where you can still stand in itCosimo, Sforza, and the peace that held for forty yearsCosimo, Sforza, and the peace that held for forty yearsHow a bank became a dynastyHow a bank became a dynastyA Monday in Florence, when the museums are shutA Monday in Florence, when the museums are shutWhat is free in Florence, and what has no queueWhat is free in Florence, and what has no queueFiesole on a city bus: the cheapest escape in TuscanyFiesole on a city bus: the cheapest escape in TuscanySiena after the coaches leaveSiena after the coaches leavePisa in half a day, and what to skipPisa in half a day, and what to skipWhich airport, and why the one called Florence is not always itWhich airport, and why the one called Florence is not always itThe ZTL, and the fines people actually getThe ZTL, and the fines people actually getWhere to stay in Florence, by what your mornings look likeWhere to stay in Florence, by what your mornings look likeSan Frediano, and what a quarter looks like when it stops performingSan Frediano, and what a quarter looks like when it stops performingLeather in Florence: workshop, market stall, or neitherLeather in Florence: workshop, market stall, or neitherSant'Ambrogio before lunch: how a working market runsSant'Ambrogio before lunch: how a working market runsThe Florentine sandwich, and the queue on Via de' NeriThe Florentine sandwich, and the queue on Via de' NeriLampredotto: what it is, and how to eat it standing upLampredotto: what it is, and how to eat it standing upHow to order a bistecca, and what comes with itHow to order a bistecca, and what comes with itWhere to watch the light land on the domeWhere to watch the light land on the domeThe walk up to San Miniato, and why most people stop too earlyThe walk up to San Miniato, and why most people stop too earlyWhich bridge to cross, and what changes on the other sideWhich bridge to cross, and what changes on the other sideA morning in the Oltrarno, workshop by workshopA morning in the Oltrarno, workshop by workshopThe Brunelleschi grammar: pietra serena, white plaster, arithmeticThe Brunelleschi grammar: pietra serena, white plaster, arithmeticReading a fresco cycle: what to look at firstReading a fresco cycle: what to look at firstThe Bargello, and why it beats the Accademia queueThe Bargello, and why it beats the Accademia queueWhat to see in the Uffizi if you only have ninety minutesWhat to see in the Uffizi if you only have ninety minutesWhy a skip-the-line ticket often is not oneWhy a skip-the-line ticket often is not oneWhat the Duomo passes actually include, and which one climbs the domeWhat the Duomo passes actually include, and which one climbs the dome

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